Pri Triglavski Jezerih Hut and beyond - SloveniaJuly 2004by VernonWalk 1Tony Colling, Lucy and I set off from Stara Fuzina at around 10.30am on the last Wednesday of our two week summer meet in Slovenia. We had had to drive over the Vrsic pass, along the motorway, and through Bled to found space in what was already quite a crowded car park. We were a bit concerned as no-one seemed to be able to make contact with our hut to book places - the phone was just not responding. Was it even open? But the very nice girl in the tourist office in Bohinjska Bistrica assured us all was fine! Unlike side of the range where the SMoG base camp was located, this side was very touristy. It seemed like the world and his wife were aiming to go on our path to the pri Triglavski jezerih hut. After the first mile or so most of them had had enough and were on their first food stop but there were enough stayers to make it a bit less than quiet! Our route was steeply up (from about 500 metres) through what seemed like fairly endless pine forest, which did seem to get a bit steamy and vaguely claustrophobic after a while. We came across two other huts on our route from which Tony tried to make contact but again without success. What if it wasn't open for some reason? Lunch was had on a very convenient log overlooking a delightful clearing way below. Then once we had found the path again it was onwards and upwards! We made the hut (1685 metres) at around 4.30pm - and it was open! However, heart attacks were nearly had again when we spotted a sign that seemed to say that the dormitories were closed for refurbishment. Once glasses were properly adjusted, it became clearer this was referring to a totally different hut. (Note: Must take younger people on walks who can see and don't panic!) Our hosts were able to speak English, although would have preferred German, and we were soon booked into a "first class" dormitory - sharing as we found out later - with several Slovenians who probably thought they would have it to themselves! The food was good, the beer even better and so to bed! Well not quite. One Slovenian was entirely rude and turned the light off while we were making our beds and then had a sulk when we asked him to turn it on again. Our fellow room mates were, if anything, even older than us and all seemed to be profoundly deaf - at least they shouted at each other a lot until lights out at 9.00pm - with the first snoring at 9.01! And just to remind us that we were in the minority they woke up shouting at 6.00! Breakfast was interesting in that they charged separately for each item - per egg, pot of marmalade, slice of bread, butter etc - weird! However, the morning and the mountains beckoned. Our plan was to make the Zavaska pass (only a few miles away from our base camp, actually) and then do a reverse loop up to a very respectable 2192m to get us back to the car, a similar length walk to the first day. The reality as often happens on walks was a little different. We came across a rather exposed steep snow slope on the route we were going to take so Lucy said "before we turn round why don't we just pop up to have a look at the next pass instead!" Well, the "pop" was about 2 miles and another 300 metres of up over increasingly moonscape terrain (actually really enjoyable). Having got that far it seemed churlish not to "Go For It" and extend the loop into a much fuller day. The down, of course, had by now to be tackled - from the Dolci pass at 2164m - but the grandeur and vistas more than made up for the physical effort. As it happened we had to go over a couple of smaller snow slope traverses but by now we certainly could not think of turning back! We do have to confess to one navigational error - we missed a dried up lake and started walking up on the wrong path. It's amazing how you can convince yourself that the map is wrong and that this must be right - particularly when you seem to be on the right compass bearing. However, we were very much wrong and rather than climb out over another 2,000m pass we back tracked and sorted ourselves out! We eventually arrived back at the car at about 8pm (pretty much a 12 hour day) very foot sore and weary - and so smelly we had to make sure we sat outside at the restaurant!! |